Jerk City, London (W1F)

Jerk City (Source: Time Out London | Eating & Drinking 2008)

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The site that used to be called Mr
Jerk has changed name and management, but it's still as Caribbean as calypso
music. The sound system plays Lovers' Rock; the cooler cabinet is stocked with
Supermalt, Old Jamaica Ginger Beer and 'Authentic Zion Roots Drink'; a cluster
of people hang around the entrance waiting for their takeaways. The menu is
near-identical to the adjacent Original Mr Jerk, and there's not that
much to choose between the two, though Jerk City is brisker, with orders taken and
paid for at the counter.

Don't over -order: on our many visits we've never
managed to finish our 'medium' portions, so we wonder who orders 'large' - Mike
Tyson? And it's a shame to waste food when it's as good as the curried mutton,
with complex flavours and unctuous textures that would be the pride of any
Trinidadian Indian; the soft roti is also the real thing. The saltfish and
ackee should also nice-'em-up, but is so rich that the accompanying rice 'n'
peas (long-grain rice stained auburn with red kidney beans) seems like welcome
relief. Soursop juice (resembling a thick milkshake) makes a refreshing accompaniment,
but is also so intense that it might play havoc with your cholesterol level.

Babies and children welcome: high
chairs; nappy-changing facilities. Takeaway service. Map 17 B3.189 Wardour Street,W1F 8ZD

(72872878).Tottenham Court Road tube. Meals served 10am-10.30pm Mon-Wed; 10am. 11pm Thur-Sat; noon-8pm Sun.

Main courses £6-£8.50. Credit Me, v.